A legend in its own lunchtime

Details Gavin's Mill  3 Gavin's Mill Road  Milngavie  G62 6NB        0141 956 2255    Get a Map    Get Directions Hats off to the proper little clever clogs who first hatched the plan to open a restaurant next door to the big Tesco's in Milngavie. Just think, this allows the locals to pop in for a cappuccino and a quick bite to eat while the chauffeur's getting the messages. Not that Milngavie (it's pronounced Mill-guy unless, of course, you're a London- based newsreader or simply someone who wants to take the mickey, in which case it's Milne-gavvy) has a reputation as one of the posher parts of Scotland. In saying that, I don't think you'll find a 99p shop or a branch of Poundstretcher in the dinky town centre - and I believe you're only allowed to sell the Big Issue in this neck of the woods if you're down to your last three holiday homes. Gavin's Mill, this week's port of call, is a refurbished 17th century flour mill that sits on the gurgling Allander Water. It's a striking feature that would do any restaurant proud, but I'm sure this intense form of running tap syndrome must have diners rushing to the loo every couple of minutes. First impression of the modern, upstairs dining-room? Well, I couldn't help thinking that one or two of the female customers might just have worked at the mill in its heyday. No, hang on, that's unfair. The clientele was simply the more mature end of the market - what I reckon would be described in Milngavie as "ladies who lunch". Yes, a Marks and Spencer cardigan delicately draped round the shoulders is always a dead giveaway. The cafe part of Gavin's Mill on the ground floor was advertising freshly baked home- made scones and that's probably what entices them in. Hyacinth Bucket - it's pronounced Bouquet - from Keeping Up Appearances wouldn't have looked out of place and the effect my fellow diners had on yours truly was quite amazing. Halfway through lunch, I felt the sudden notion to head for the nearest church fete and risk 50p on the prize tombola. We hadn't lingered in the downstairs cafe, despite one of the waitresses trying to tempt us with the words: "Sitting on our sofas is a must." Along with walking part of the Great Wall of China and seeing the Pyramids, I suppose this will just have to remain one of life's great ambitions. The new owners of Gavin's Mill (they took over three months ago) previously ran the excellent No. 16 on Byres Road in Glasgow, so I quickly sensed we wouldn't be forced to endure bog- standard food. The set menu (available at lunchtime and early evening) represents terrific value for money at pounds 11.50 for three courses and the equally tempting light lunch menu allows plenty of scope for mixing and matching. Although I must confess I was initially discouraged by the use of the word light. My dining companion April started with the crispy leg of guinea fowl ("I'm a guinea fowl virgin," she confessed, as though the bloke sitting across from her eats this stuff five times a week in Motherwell) and gave it the thumbs up. "Very tasty," she concluded. "Just like a cross between duck and chicken." My fishcake was faultless - loads of fish, just the right percentage of potato and it was ever so slightly burnt on the outside - exactly the way I like it. Just like the starters, the main courses arrived on plates that were quite rightly described by our sofa- fetishist as "roasty-toasty" - and, you know, both dishes were lovely jubbly. April's grilled fillet of sea bream was cooked to perfection. Served with sun-dried tomato tagliatelle, she couldn't believe this was part of the very inexpensive fixed-price lunch. No complaints from this side of the table, either. My roast breast of chicken - with the deliciously crispy skin very much intact - only needed a liberal sprinkling of salt to prove yet again that truly great food should always be kept simple. Both meals were served with basil mash and green beans but, of course, I couldn't resist a side order of the pounds 1.80 chips. They were first class. Undisputedly home-made, they somehow reminded me of the ones my Aunt Agnes used to make.

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